So, what else do you do in Athens besides eating and making day trips to nearby islands? Well, for starters, there are museums and archeological sites galore. Athens is one of the world’s oldest cities, with a recorded history spanning around 3400 years. Any public work involving digging is often interrupted because antiquities are unearthed.
I am not very big on museums, so I decided to explore the archeological sites instead. The main attraction that everybody sees is, of course, the Acropolis. The 12 € ticket (valid for 4 days) also gives you access to the following sites: Ancient Agora and Temple of Hephaistos as well as Ancient Agora Museum, Dionysus Theatre, Hadrian’s Library, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Roman Agora, and Keramikos (ancient cemetery) along with its museum. So it’s really quite a good deal. If you visit one of the minor sites first, make sure that you get the combined ticket (assuming that you will be visiting the Acropolis later).
These sites are around 2000-2500 years old, so there isn’t all that much left. But I love Greek and Roman ruins, even if it’s just a cluster of ionic columns jutting to the sky. There is such an elegance, refinement and pleasant symmetry to that architecture. When I wander the sites, I try to imagine Greek philosophers lecturing, or ancient Romans reclining on marble slabs while eating grapes!
The Parthenon, the main building of the Acropolis, is the exception. Although it’s in a state of constant restoration, with cranes and scaffolding jutting out of it, there is enough left that you can fully appreciate its size and symmetry. Of course it has suffered many indignities over the years, including the theft of some of its sculpted frieze, and a huge explosion in 1687 that blew up the central portion.
Near the Acropolis are the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (amphitheatre) that you can see from above but not enter, and a smaller temple called the Erechtheion with some nicely preserved columns and statues.
Many of the sculptures and other art from the Acropolis are contained in the new Acropolis Museum, opened in 2009 and located down below. The admission costs only €5 and is not included in the combined ticket. This museum replaces a much smaller one that used to be located next to the Parthenon. This is the only museum I visited on this trip. Unfortunately you are not allowed to take photographs within a large part of it. On the second floor is a café that affords clear views of the Acropolis on its rocky pedestal.
Another spot that has particularly lovely views of the Acropolis is the Temple of Hephaistos, which looks like a mini Parthenon and is located in one corner of the Ancient Agora site.
And of course the Acropolis itself is the spot to get phenomenal views all over Athens. Make sure that you walk all the way to the observation belvedere at the very back near the flag. The entrance also provides a great view. Just remember to turn around (or wait until you exit).
Every traveller and every tour bus stops by the Acropolis, so expect a lot of people. Fortunately it is an outdoor site, so you’re not really stepping on each others’ feet. If you want your pictures to be relatively free of people, you may want to arrive first thing in the morning when the site opens. Failing that, you could try lunch time (around 1 or 2 pm), or at the very end of the day, before closing.
The funny thing about central Athens is that just by wandering its modern streets and boulevards, you unexpectedly come upon some of these ruins when you round a corner, or cross a street. And suddenly, it’s right there! And if you look up from the uneven sidewalks, there is a good chance you’ll see the Acropolis itself.
If you don’t know where the Pelion is or why you should go there, then you need to read my previous article about untouristy Greece first. If you just want to know about the food, keep reading.
Local products
The two products that come to mind when I think about the gastronomy of the Pelion region are, without a doubt, the tsipouro and the fruit preserves.
Tsipouro is a liquor obtained from the distillation of grape marc, similar to the Greek ouzo or raki. It comes both with or without anis flavour, and is served in a small shooter glass with every meal (except breakfast…I think) as a kind of aperitif, to stimulate appetite. Just like ouzo you can drink it straight, on ice, or mixed with water. It is closely interwoven with Greek lifestyle, hospitality and entertainment, and a meal requires several clanking of the tsipouro glasses while saying “yiamas” (meaning “to your health”).
The fruits preserved in syrup (gliko koutaliou) are ubiquitous throughout the region and some shops display rows upon rows of these jars, containing various fruits such as apricots, pear, apples, and many others. The syrup is thick and very sweet, and the texture of the fruit is somewhere between canned and candied. They constitute very good toppings for Greek yoghurt.
Every other place we visited on the trip gave us a gift of either tsipouro or gliko koutaliou. I confess that I had to leave most of these behind as the glass jars and bottles were quite heavy (and also a health hazard when they rolled off the bus’ overhead rack onto the head of unsuspecting passengers!)
Many of the villages are also known for their apples (Zagora in particular) and chestnuts. On the coast, where it’s warmer, you also find crops of oranges, lemons, potatoes, tomatoes, capsicum, and more. Olives of course are everywhere! Harvest season is November, and at the end of October we could already see a lot of olives in the trees. Did you know that you shouldn’t eat olives right off the branch as they are very bitter? They must me soaked in salty water for several months before becoming edible. Greece produces 29 kinds of olives, one of which is the Pelion olive.
As well, Greece is home to 6000 types of plants (1000 of which are endemic) due to its many micro-climates (deep gorges, islands, and so on). Mount Pelion has the greatest concentration of medicinal plants in Greece. The mythical Centaurs are thought to originate from here, and according to legend, one of them, Chiron, was tutor to the God of Medicine. You will see shops selling various herbs and spices around the villages.
Some villages such as Portaria and Zagora have Women Cooperatives that produce traditional sweets, jams, fruit preserves, and pastas, as well as non-food handicrafts like knits and lace. The one in Zagora prides itself on using no preservatives.
If you like to sit down and have your food prepared for you, that’s no problem. You can find several cafés and restaurants, usually on or around the central village square. Some even have fireplaces for cooler days.
If there are several of you, order multiple appetizers and main dishes to share. This is what our group of 16 did for most of our meals. Our two guides would pre-order the food and we just had to dig in!
In a typical meal the tsipouro comes first, followed by the appetizers (mezes) and wine. At Dionysis in Volos, we were served many seafood mezes including calamari, steamed mussels, shrimps, and little fried fish. Our mezes at Agnadi in Tsagarada included beautiful mixed salads, potato wedges and stewed peppers with sausage. K.X.1948 in Volos brought us a delicious chunk of fried cheese adorned with fruit preserves (much better than it sounds). Other common appetizers include a dip made of feta, yoghurt and herbs, as well as pieces of zucchini floured and lightly fried in beer and olive oil (almost like tempura).
You can easily make a meal just with mezes. However we always got main courses too, which consisted mostly of meat (chicken, lamb or pork) accompanied by potatoes or rice.
What about dessert you ask? I do remember some cake (with apples, or chestnuts of course) but by then I was too stuffed to eat more than a few bites. You can see the feasts we had by looking at the photos!
According to Yargos (from Stamou Boutique Hotel in Zagora), you can eat and drink for about 15 € per person in the Pelion villages. Of course, if all you want is coffee and a piece of cake, you can get that too! Besides Greek coffee, you can order a latte, a cappuccino, or even hot chocolate.
One night in Volos, our restaurant K.X.1948 featured a live band, and our guides encouraged us to dance “greek style”. I didn’t notice any of the locals dancing, but apparently it was too early. I assume more tsipouro had to be consumed first. Yiamas!
The first time visitor to Greece usually lands in Athens, rushes through the sights and then hits an island or two (or three) for some sun and sea. But if you have more time, or are looking for an historically rich region with a varied landscape where you can visit sea, mountains, and traditional villages all in the same day, consider the Pelion.
Don’t worry if you haven’t heard of the Pelion before. I hadn’t either until this trip. The Pelion is located on a peninsula 326 kilometres northeast of Athens, which comprises Mount Pelion (1600 metres) as well as the Pagasitic Gulf coast south of the city of Volos, and the Aegean Coast on the other side of the peninsula. 24 villages dot the mountain and coasts. Volos is the third most populous city in Greece (130 000 people). It’s a modern university town with all the tourist services one might expect, as well as a three-kilometre long pedestrian boardwalk by the seaside.
Go in April (for the flowers), May, or September for the best weather (*). You can hike on the heavily forested Pelion mountain, or swim at a beach along the coast, or on one of the Sporades islands (which is where the movie Mama Mia was filmed). The beaches on the Aegean sea are sandy, while along the Pagasitic Gulf they are pebbly. The main Sporades islands are Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonnisos. They are linked to each other and to Volos by ferry.
Of course you should try to visit several of the traditional villages. They were settled in the 14th century after the Ottomans invaded and established themselves in Volos. Here are the ones that we visited:
Makrinitsa: Considered one of the five most authentic villages in Greece. It has a silk and leather industry and several shops, many of which sell the ubiquitous gliko koutaliou (fruits preserved in syrup).
Portaria: Visit the Women Cooperative making traditional sweets, jams, pastas, knits and lace, and the small museum with its olive press. A network of hiking trails follow ancient paths that were used by merchants.
Zagora:Biggest village of the Pelion (1300 inhabitants), with four churches. It is known for its apples and chestnuts. It also has a Women’s Agricultural Association, a cooperative founded in 1993 whose products contain no preservatives. (We got to meet the mayor there and hear about his plans for tourism.)
Kissos: There was a chestnut festival on the main square while we were in town. (It was hard to appreciate through the incessant rain though.) Take a look at the church of Agia Marina while you’re there.
Tsagarada:One of the most beautiful villages of Pelion, it spreads over four kilometres!
Milies:Ride in an old wooden train with gorgeous mountain views to Ano Lehonia, or stop part-way in the village of Ano Gazea. It’s a real antique train, built by an Italian engineer in the late 19th century to carry goods to the port of Volos.
Ano Gazea: Visit the Olive Museum, a museum about olives, olive oil, rural life and folklore. You can also ride horses from here.
Most villages are built on a similar model. The central square is home to the church, a couple of large plane trees, and a few cafés. Cobblestone streets are lined with stone houses, as well as restaurants and shops selling local foods and products. Chestnuts and apples grow in the villages and wild boars are hunted between October and February.
This may come as a surprise but Mount Pelion gets snow in winter and is actually a ski destination! See the confusion on your friends’ faces when you tell them that you’re going to ski in Greece. 🙂 The closest village to the ski centre is Chania, located at 1000 metres (the highest village of the Pelion).
Volos was the site of a neolithic settlement and its remarkably good Archeological Museum displays daily life implements going as far back as 5000-7000 BC. In the marina, you can also check out Argo, a replica of the ship from the legend of Jason and the Argonauts. In 2008, a group of modern argonauts built and sailed this replica of the legendary ship between Volos and the Adriatic sea: a total of 1000 kilometres over two months.
Where to stay
We were hosted at the 5-star Xenia Hotel in Volos (which I recommend if you can afford it – right along the water, with an amazing buffet breakfast). You can check booking.com, travellerspoint.com or one of the resources at the bottom of this article, for cheaper options.
In Zagora, we talked with Yargos, the owner of the small Stamou Boutique Hotel. The inn has only nine rooms, all with fireplaces, where a double costs 60 to 75 Euros. (I may stay there if I go back… with a friend.) Yargos is also involved in developing tourism in Zagora and the region. He talked about the possibility of providing hikers with GPS, offering cooking lessons, as well as ski passes (with lessons included). He was interesting and sounded very enthusiastic.There are big plans afoot for the Pelion.
I asked him about budget travellers, and according to him, about half the properties in the region can be considered “budget”.
Getting there and around
If you’re not driving, you can reach Volos from Athens by either bus (direct, about 4 hours) or train (with a change in Larissa, 4.5 to 5 hours) or even by flying direct to Skiathos or Nea Anchialos (on the coast) from several European capitals. Once in Volos, mountain villages are accessible by bus, and the Sporades islands can be reached by ferry.
If you are driving, you can stop at the Thermopiles hot springs on the way to or from Athens. The town of Kamena Vourla also makes a good mid-point stop.
Warning: since most of the villages are pedestrian, this often creates a big tangle of cars and trucks trying to park and pass each other on the narrow roads at the entry of the villages. You will need nerves of steel to drive up there!
What about food?
Isn’t something missing from this article? That’s right, food! We ate so much on this tour that I have dedicated an entire post to the topic of food of the Pelion region.
Magnesia Tourism (Magnesia is a larger area that includes the Pelion)
At the moment, most of the visitors to the Pelion are Greek, and the region is just starting to court foreign visitors. You should go now before everybody else discovers it!
(*) I was there during the last week of October and we had terrible weather: cold, rainy and overcast for three days, but we were told that we were very unlucky as it is “usually sunny”!
Greek food goes far beyond souvlaki and baklava. Athens alone offers a wide variety of foods and produce and I know I have barely scratched the surface. The events at TBEX helped me discover much more than I would have on my own, and here are the enticing results. (Photos are at the end.)
Athens Food Tour
This half-day walking food tour around the Psiri neighbourhood (north west of better known Plaka) was offered by Athens Walking Tours and led by our very knowledgeable guide Vassiliki (Vicky for short).
Our first stop was a koulouri stand, where we were each offered a chunk of this round-shaped bread covered with sesame seeds. It looks like a skinny bagel but is much drier. Dating from antiquity, it is the most common snack, and often the first thing people eat in the morning, along with a coffee (and perhaps a cigarette – yes the Greeks smoke a lot!)
Vicky talked not only about the food, but also how it tied into the culture and religion of the country. “Athens is like a big village” she said, and she explained that because most inhabitants of Athens come from small villages on the islands or mountains, meal times are determined by the habits of these primarily agricultural regions. For example, rising early and getting most of the hard work done before the heat of mid-day gave rise to the late lunch hour (2:00 to 4:00 PM) followed by a siesta before resuming work later in the day.
As well, due to the many fasting periods of the Orthodox Christian calendar (97% of Greeks are Orthodox ) when people essentially become vegan for several weeks, many foods have been adapted to these stricter eating habits and provide proteins without dairies, meat or fish.
Our next stop was an old-fashion cafe called Krinos, where the decor hardly appeared to have changed since its founding in 1923. There we were served loukoumades, a donut-like pastry covered in honey and crushed nuts, often eaten at marriages and baptisms. It’s a sweet of Arabic origin and you can have it as a regular dessert as well.
Our third stop was the Central Meat and Fish Market of Athens. The meat section sold every animal part imaginable, including an entire cow head! The fish section had slippery floors and enticing displays of calamari, squids, and several types of fish. Men screamed at the top of their lungs announcing the deals of the day.
We stopped for over half-an-hour at the Lesvos Shop (named after the island of the same name). A table had been set up in the back for tastings and we all gathered around to try out samples of many different products including olive oils, feta cheese, honey, olive paste, sundried tomatoes, yoghurt, fruit preserves (glyco koutaliou), wine, and a dessert liquor called mastika, made from the drops of a tree found only on the south side of the island of Chios. I liked it. It was sweet and had a kind of herbal taste.
We learned a lot at Lesvos Shop. For example, how do you know if honey is pure? Let it drip from a spoon. It should form a filament that doesn’t break. If the filament breaks, it means the honey has been mixed with other ingredients such as sugar.
And did you know that Greece produces 42 kinds of olive oil (90% of which is extra virgin), and 120 kinds of cheese, making it the second producer of cheese after France? Neither did I before I took this tour!
Next we stopped by Bougatsadiko, a traditional pie shop with a striking interior that makes you feel like you’ve entered an ancient monument. A bougatsa is a Greek pie made of layers of phyllo pastry filled with either custard, cheese, or meat. They are traditionally a breakfast pastry. By the way, “breakfast” in Greece is something you eat around 11:00 or noon (having had a coffee and koulouri earlier as a sort of “pre-breakfast” to get you going).
Following this we made a stop at an herb store called Fotsis where the smell of herbs, teas, and spices drifted all the way to the sidewalk. Just around the corner was Miran, an Armenian-owned delicatessen shop with sausages hanging from the ceiling like stalactites. We got to try an expensive cured beef called pastourma, which was originally made from camel meat!
Rounding up the 3.5 hour tour, we strolled through the colourful outdoor Fruit and Vegetable Market offering several varieties of olives, in addition to chestnuts, pomegranate and more common fruits, veggies, and nuts. We were handed big red grapes and an addictive sweet called halva made from sesame paste, sugar, and almonds.
The food at TBEX
The bloggers’ conference itself provided many opportunities to try different Greek foods. Not only were the lunches on both days catered and served buffet-style, but both the opening night and closing night parties revolved around food.
The opening night party, was held at a venue called Technopolis. With a name like that, I expected some sleek and modern industrial-loft lounge, but what I walked into was more like a food fair. A couple dozens booths lined both sides of a well-lit building and offered food and wine samples: everything from organic cherry tomatoes to sophisticated appetizers from a downtown restaurant. Within an hour or so, foods as varied as cheese pie, cured ham, pasta, cheese, snail, halva mousse, and loukoum (Turkish delight) had passed through my lips. Alpha beer had a booth outside the building pouring you as much beer as you wanted.
The closing TBEX event was a stroll along Pandrossou Street where various merchants offered food and drink samples to everybody wearing the TBEX T-shirt. To be honest, I think there was more drink than food. I managed to sample some grilled meat with fried potatoes, meatballs, spinach pie, wine, grappa, and frozen yogurt.
On my own
With all those organized events, I rarely needed to find my own food. However, I went out on a few occasion, including a nice dinner at Taverna Klimataria, which had been recommended from Vicky of the food tour. Although the place is a little hard to find and sits alone on a strangely deserted street (Theatrou Square), the atmosphere and staff were very pleasant and the prices very reasonable (no view of the Acropolis here).
At 8:30 PM only a few tables were occupied (all tourists of course at this “early” hour – Greeks don’t normally have dinner until 10 PM). I chose karniyeri, a dish similar to moussaka but without the bechamel. The menu described it as a mosaic of potatoes, eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, pepper, minced beef and yellow cheese. I washed it down with a glass of red wine. Greek-wine is not award-winning stuff but most of it is very drinkable, especially with food.
By the way, I was told by several different guides that Greeks always eat mezes (small appetizers similar to the Spanish tapas) every time they drink so that they don’t get drunk. The idea is to socialize, not to become intoxicated!
On another night, I went to a little corner restaurant/take-out place that I had noticed near my apartment. They serve gyros, the greek sandwich where meat is sliced from a vertical spit and placed in a pita bread. Although the menu was all in Greek, the guy spoke “a little English”. I had the pork gyros with “everything” which included not only tomatoes, onions and tzatziki, but also fried potatoes inside the sandwich itself. This big gyros, which was more than enough for a meal, cost me only 1.80 Euro!
I hope you enjoy the photos. Everything I described here was sampled over a period of only four days. Bloody incredible!
I have been in Athens since late last Sunday night to attend the TBEX (Travel Blogger Exchange) conference happening from October 23 to 25. I’m staying in an AirBnB apartment 10 minutes walk from the Megaron Convention Centre. I spent Monday resting and settling in, checking out the neighbourhood’s coffee shops, buying some groceries, and so on.
Early departure for Aegina
On Tuesday I got up super early (5.45 am) to join my first pre-TBEX tour: an all-day sailing trip to Aegina island with Grazy Travel.
Aegina is part of the Saronic group of islands, a short distance by ferry from Athens. It is a common escape for Athenians, but little known by foreign tourists.
Grazy Travel is a travel company organizing great and crazy travel in Greece! They generously sponsored this excursion for 16 lucky (and quick to sign up) TBEX attendees, including myself!
It was still dark when I arrived at the meeting spot at the downtown Athens InfoPoint. Fortunately I had made the same trip the day before to pick up my TBEX Welcome Kit (full of goodies such as a 5-day public transit pass). A bus was waiting. Most bloggers already inside were still half asleep, and we were all thinking the same thing “Man, I need a coffee before I can start chatting up all these strangers!”.
We sailed from Alimos Marina (not from the much bigger Piraeus) on two 14 metre sailboat sitting a maximum of 8 passengers each. Our boat had a crew of two: Lykourgos and Ioannis. We travelled for about two and a half hours with the motor on because the winds were too light to really sail, but the sunny mild weather and blue Saronic sea turned out to be very enjoyable. Of course the seven bloggers on my boat, all women, got to chat with each other. We were presented with coffee, orange juice and six boxes full of Greek pies (spinach, cheese, meat) but I only had one to be on the safe side. As you may know, I am prone to motion sickness, and despite taking medication that morning, I didn’t want to tempt fate!
The sights of Aegina
Upon arrival on Aegina, we were received like celebrities. Right where we docked, a table had been set up with pistachios (a local product), flowers and ouzo! It was a bit early to drink, but most people took at least a few sips.
Then we boarded a bus for a whirlwind tour of the island, starting with the beautiful and completely untouristy Temple of Aphaia, dating back to around 500 B.C. The interior of Aegina is mountainous and from the temple site, we had views down to the beautiful blue sea.
Next we stopped at a ceramic shop where in five minutes, an old man produced a vase from a ball of clay. This was followed by an exploration on foot of several little churches that still dot the mountainside where the village used to be located between 800 and 1800 A.C. when the inhabitants feared pirates and invaders. Only ruins of some houses remain, but a few little churches, still showing traces of 14th century frescoes, have been maintained. Among the needle trees that cover the mountains, we also found almond trees, complete with clusters of almonds!
Driving back toward the coast we made a quick photo stop at the Church of St Nektarios, a “new” Orthodox church built in 1994, saw the remnants of a Jewish synagogue mosaic floor, as well as the archeological site of Delphinios Apollo, where a single column still stands among the ruins (giving it its more common name of “Kolona”).
By that point everybody was hungry, but we were told we had to make one more stop before lunch: the Mayor’s office, where the mayor himself wanted to meet us bloggers! As the mayor spoke about his island, our guide translated into English, and we were all handed a souvenir T-shirt of Aegina.
A late lunch and the return
Finally we had lunch at a taverna along the main road. Unlike the sightseeing, the lunch was leisurely (this is Greece after all) and we were served the obligatory “raki” (strong alcoholic cure-all) followed by a yoghurt and cucumber dip, salad, fried zucchini, and a main course of our choice. I had meatballs in tomato sauce and potatoes. Wine and beer were brought to the table as well.
We were given a little time after lunch to wander the town. Then we all boarded the boats for the long trip back (3 hours). This time there was some wind and we sailed for most of the way with both sails deployed. It was slow going, and by the time we arrived in Athens it had been dark for over half an hour. We did see the sunset though, but I was a little too cold by then to enjoy it. Seeing me hug myself, Lykourgos handed me his fleece vest. What a sweet man. 🙂
If you want an untouristy island close to Athens, go to Aegina. By ferry or hydrofoil, the trip only takes 40 to 95 minutes each way. The water is beautifully clear, but the only beach I saw looked muddy and not all that appealing. But if you want an island that still feels “Greek” and is doable as a day trip or a week-end trip, Aegina will fit the bill.
So you’re thinking of walking or hiking in Crete? Excellent choice! The southernmost and largest of the Greek Islands offers beaches, sea, sun, and ruins of ancient civilizations. But it’s also a true walkers’ paradise.
April and May are the best months to go exploring the green and rugged interior. The meadows are blanketed in wild flowers and the air is still fresh. Early fall is good too. Hiking in Crete can be an easy half-day affair through villages on mostly flat terrain, or a longer and more challenging tramp through gorges, or up and down hills.
Walking in Crete with Happy Walker
If you do not have your own transportation, or if you are travelling on your own, you might want to join a guided hike. The Happy Walker, a local company, organizes daily guided walks in the area around Rethymno. When showing up at their office, they first sit you down and offer you a shot of raki, the ubiquitous Cretan spirit. Business here is not rushed, and the friendly Dutch owners, Anthony Pruissen and friend Ineke Banninga, have time to chat.
“We started our company around 1990”, says Pruissen. “The idea came up during my guiding in the Samaria gorge. There are so many other beautiful areas for walking in Crete”, he continues. “At that time there existed no other company which specialized in walking, so The Happy Walker came into being”. Their web site details seven walks, each offered on a different day of the week and costing 32 Euros.
On a bright Sunday morning in May, private cars and taxis whisk our group of 17 to the starting point of the walk in the village of Kare, near Rethymno. Most participants are in their forties and fifties. The walks last around 4 to 5 hours and can be accomplished by anyone who is reasonably fit. Our guide is an athletic Dutch woman named Pia. She addresses the group in both English and German and finds out where we’re all coming from.
Walking in Crete along dirt paths
The hike starts through gently undulating fields covered in olive groves and vines. A couple of farmers riding donkeys greet us with a friendly “kalimera” (good morning). Bushes of yellow flowers grow close to the path, and the view suddenly opens up to reveal a perfect pastoral landscape of fields and farms, with hills layered in the background.
Falling behind the group on purpose, all I can hear is the wind and the tinkling bells from a herd of grazing sheep. Occasionally the path goes through a village, its houses bedecked with potted flowers, and donkeys tied to blue fences. As we walk, I ask Pia why she moved to Crete. “I fell in love with it”, she says simply.
The largest island in the Greek archipelago, Crete’s interior is lush, green, and very mountainous. It is 250 kilometres long and about 60 kilometres at its widest point, and offers a surprising variety of landscapes, from coastal paths, to mountains, gorges and caves. Of its estimated 2000 species of plants, 160 are found only here. It has one of the richest varieties of indigenous herbs in the world, used in both cooking and medicinal preparations. It also produces olive oil, one of the mainstays of the Cretan diet.
Pia points down to an area where fossils of large shells lay partly exposed, testifying to the fact that Crete once rested at the bottom of the sea. A bit further down, a young man in a leather jacket makes great showmanship of his sheep herding skills. “Ptchhhhew” he utters, waving his arms at the confused animals.
After two hours, a stop at a farmhouse provides some well needed refreshment: coffee (hot or iced) and of course raki. The pause lasts a leisurely 45 minutes and the group has time to chat.
Walking in Crete among the spring flowers
The second part of the hike starts with a short but steep climb. The top of the hill provides a 270-degree view of the surrounding countryside. Leaving the wide dirt path, the group crosses a field awash in wild flowers. Poppies, daisies, and many other buds paint a pointillist canvas of red, white and yellow on the grass. And right there, in the middle of it all, lay the remains of a Byzantine basilica, with a chunk of perfectly preserved mosaic floor. A steep descent on a narrow trail leads back to the starting point, completing the 4-hour, 12-kilometre hike.
Each daily walk ends with a set lunch at a local taverna. A long wood table is promptly laden with plates upon plates of food. Today, appetizers consist of Greek salad, tsatsiki, bread, and giant beans. A main course of chicken and French fries follows, rounded up by fresh oranges for dessert. The meal is watered down with a local wine, amber in colour, that smells like cider but tastes a bit like sherry. Local wine can have various colours, even though Cretans call “red” all wine which is not white. House wine is always ordered by the kilo or half-kilo instead of litre or half-litre. (Note: Lunches are now vegetarian. Coffee break + lunch + house wine cost 12 Euros.)
A Cretan lunch
More strenuous hikes in Crete
The Samaria gorge
If your idea of walking in Crete involves a more challenging hike, the popular Samaria Gorge may fit the bill. At 16 kilometres from end to end, it is one of the longest canyons in Europe. This hike can be done independently using public transportation. It entails taking an early morning bus from Chania to Xyloskalo, the entrance to the gorge, where you must buy a 5-Euro ticket to access the National Park. The hike starts with a 1000-metre descent down a steep zigzagging path with wooden handrails. Although the bottom is mostly flat, the stony ground is very uneven and you will need rugged footwear with thick soles and some ankle support.
Descent into the Samaria Gorge, Crete
You will walk between sheer rock walls (500 metres at their highest point), crossing and re-crossing the stream over wooden planks or carefully placed stepping stones. At the narrowest point of the gorge (the Iron Gates, only 3 metres wide) you might have to walk through water in the spring time. The bushes with pink flowers that grow everywhere in the gorge are oleander: very pretty, but extremely poisonous if ingested. The walk takes from 4 to 6 hours, but several rest stops are equipped with picnic tables and toilets. You can refill your water bottle at many springs along the way, but you can’t buy food in the park.
Samaria Gorge, Crete
Other hikes
Several other gorges cut through the western part of the island, such as Imbros, which is only 8 kilometres long. If you can’t bear to leave the sight of the sea behind, coastal paths on the southern coast let you hike between towns such as Hora Sfakion to Loutro (5.5 kilometres), or Paleohora to Sougia (14.5 kilometres) passing inviting beaches and coves.
As if this wasn’t enough, Crete is also the ending point of the E4 route, a cross-European hiking trail for experienced trekkers that begins in Spain and meanders through the island over a distance of 320 kilometres.
(The Happy Walker also offers excursions to both the Samaria Gorge and Imbros Gorge. See their site for details.)
How expensive is Crete?
Compared to other Euro destinations, Crete is very affordable. Single rooms with private bath start at 35 Euros (including breakfast) in the main tourist towns of Rethymno and Chania, and you can have a filling meal with local wine for 10 to 15 Euros. The shot of raki is always on the house. 🙂
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If you go:
The Happy Walker: 56 Tobazi Street, Rethymno. Tel: 28310 52920.
They also offer 8 or 10 days hiking holidays.
Samaria Gorge: Open May 1st to October 31 (may close earlier), 6:00 am to 3:00 pm. Get all information at the Chania Tourist Information Office.
Where to stay in Crete: The Happy Walker can help organize affordable accommodation near Rethymno. Right in town, try: Olga’s Pension (small/double room: 35€ / 45€ – including breakfast) or 3-star Hotel Brascos. For more hotels all over Crete and even private apartments, check out Booking.com.
How to travel around in Crete:renting a car allows you complete freedom to explore, but there is also a fairly extensive network of buses covering the west, centre, and east of the island.
Solo Travel Over 40 